CHAPTER 19 POITU VAREIN : INDIA, HINDUTVA AND HISTORY

 INDIA, HINDUTVA AND HISTORY
by Suranya Aiyar 

CHAPTER 19: POITU VAREIN

A painting of good prevailing over evil. Tanjore School. 

Finally, after nearly a year, I come to the end of this paper. The Tamil version of goodbye fits well here: “I go now, and will be back”. For if this work is read, then I am sure that people will have plenty to say and ask of me. If it is not, then I will be back with another attempt to force you into a conversation!

Now for the summing up.

For me, the most profound experience working on this paper was……discovery! One starts writing with a map and destination in mind. But this time, though I arrived at the place that I had intended all along, which is a secular India that celebrates her diversity, my understanding of the country is vastly different to what it was before.

Also my understanding of myself as an Indian. At journey’s end, I have made the gratifying discovery that in being the mixed creature that I am: half Sikh and half Tam Bram; a South Indian raised in North India; English speaking with a taste for Sanskrit kavya; mad about Hindustani and Carnatic music; believing in everything at once – Hinduism, sufism, Sikhism, Christianity; married to a Jat Sikh with distant connections to Rajasthani royalty; I need never have thought of myself as an anomaly in India, that is, Bharat.

For, in my very hybridity and self-invention, and more than that, in the fascination and education that everything Indian holds for me, from the chatter of my village-raised maids to the magnificent temples of Tanjore, I am and always have been quintessentially Indian. Maybe this is why I feel so compelled, so helplessly driven to keep fighting for this, the only real and true India.

What an experiment in humanity. What a lesson in all things good and beautiful. And what a travesty to let it be destroyed by the uneducated thugs of Hindutva.  

What stands out, towering above everything else and visible from every direction, like the massive monoliths with which this history began, is how ancient and deeply rooted are the values of pluralism and secularism in India. This survey of over 2000 years of history consistently shows India to have always diverse, with a multiplicity of peoples, cultures, languages and religions. These peoples were melded together in a remarkable early example of a public ethos of harmonious co-existence, the locus of which was not, as is sometimes wrongly thought, Hinduism, but the kings who ruled India, and the wider region that I have called Greater Asia.

By now the reader would have seen in chapter upon chapter, the openness, tolerance and cosmopolitanism that has marked our rulers from the time of Ashoka, through the Satvahanas, Pallavas, Gangas, Pandyas, Cholas, Chalukyas and Rashtrakutas of the first millennium; to the Hoysalas, Yadavas, Vijayanagaris, Bahmanis, Deccan Sultans, Nayakas and Marathas of the second millennium.

The South Indian kings did not see themselves as religious crusaders or defenders of any faith. That they went into battle with the names of their gods on their lips has been deliberately misunderstood by the Hindu Right. This is how we fight even today. I wonder if it is possible to be willing to die without consigning your soul to god.



The kings had mixed armies, and their courts reflected the ethnic, linguistic and religious diversity of the people. The courts were not just locally diverse, but international hubs for warriors, artists, thinkers and brilliant men of all races and backgrounds.

They were a magnet for talent and enterprise, as the great metropolises of the First World are today. There was no petty insularity and none of the modern Indian propensity to judge a man by his race and religion.

The courts were open to all gifted men, and actively sought them out. Poets, philosophers, painters and musicians moved between different courts, even when the reigning kings had fought each other.

The only ones to escape this cultural and religious hybridity were the non-fighting and non-courtly Brahmins who remained pinned to their agraharas and temples in tiny enclaves around the deep South below the River Kaveri. These Brahmins who did not participate in the wider world were able to live in a bubble of insularity that was an exception, and not the rule, to the hybridity of the Deccan.

And these Brahmins were themselves a sub-class of Brahmins. There is no reason for Tamil Brahmins today to look upon the constricted cultural and social world of these pujaris, mamis and petites functionaire of the Madras Presidency as their only heritage.

Orthodoxy and austerity are not the only legacy of the Brahmin. Look at your own families – in my father’s generation, it was those who left the old ways who did well. Today your sons and daughters abroad, who are marrying foreigners and discarding the old rituals and taboos, are the ones who are flourishing.

I understand the sentiment that attaches to one’s heritage, but it is possible with a little imagination to carry that heritage, and to yet be modern and liberal. There is a rich artistic and political legacy that has been left by the courtly Brahmin that we can take pride in, and draw from in finding our place in India and the world today.

We have all this, as well as the contribution of Tamil Brahmins to science, industry, philosophy, the arts and nation-building in modern India to hold as our legacy and heritage.

Gandhiji’s first trip after returning to India from South Africa was to Madras. It was the elite Brahmins there who endorsed him, and introduced him to the rest of the nation as the leader to back in the struggle against the British. They knew of Gandhi’s work with the Indian diaspora against colonialism in South Africa from their own businesses and settlements there. That they were able to identify Gandhi’s brilliance and importance before he became a “Mahatma” is to the credit of the whole community.

A historic favour done to India which is now being undone by the historic mistake of supporting and endorsing Narendra Modi.


Returning to the age of the South Indian rajas, bigotry and bullying have always existed among the common people and the priestly classes of all faiths. But, as we saw over and over in the pages of this study, the abiding ethos of the courts was to smooth over communal conflict, give freedom to different religions and beliefs, and encourage religious tolerance and harmony among the people.

The first hard break in this governing tradition came with British rule – partly as a result of their ignorance of this aspect of Greater Asian society; and partly as a conscious policy of manipulating sectarian differences here to their advantage. The ethos of communal harmony was restored by our Freedom Struggle, and it is suffering its second historical break under the Modi Regime.

When this is understood, then the Sangh Parivar is revealed to not be the voice that it claims to be of our ancient civilisation. Rather, its beliefs and practices violate Indian traditions of cosmopolitanism, secularism and multiculturalism of thousands of years’ vintage.

Traditionally, there was no idea of cultural homogeneity or race solidarity in South India. Hinduism, as we know, made a point of emphasising intra-ethnic separation through caste. We have also seen in this paper how, from the time of the Mauryas at least, South Indian kings and chiefs often came from religious, linguistic and ethnic backgrounds that were different to those of their subjects, and even of their queens. Religion, language and ethnicity did not define kings or kingship.

The kings were, first and foremost, warriors. Then they were administrators. Then they were aesthetes. It was they who were the builders of temples and other monuments. It was they who cultivated the literature and arts of the times. It was they and their subjects as a body, with all their different religions, languages and ethnicities, who were the creators and custodians of this heritage.

Chola Mural at the Brihadisvara Temple from the corridor
encircling the main shrine. Photo Source: Sethi 2018, pg 89. 

The temples built by kings played a number of secular functions, all of which were more important than their religious one. Afterall, prayer could be done anywhere. Temples were a regal symbol; sometimes they served as commemorative monuments to victories in battle; and, always, they acted as a canvas for the king’s most public celebration of art and culture. His own, together with that of his subjects.


I have referred to myself as a Tamil Brahmin a number of times in this paper. I suspect that the politics of Tamil Nadu is such that I might not have felt easy doing so had I lived in Chennai instead of Delhi. That would have been too politically incorrect, even though I do not mean to identify myself as a Tamil Brahmin in a caste-ist sense, but simply to set out my background, and open the conversation as a member, however renegade, of that community.

Some part of the espousal of Hindutva by Tamil Brahmins appears to come from a resentment against the sharp anti-caste politics of the last century in South India. I have some sympathy for this, for it is not as though the orthodox Brahmin has been the sole upholder of caste in our society. Caste and “jat” are the social framework in which all the traditional communities of India live and have lived, even those who belong to the so-called lower or excluded castes, and even those who are not Hindu.

Last year, there was a brief outburst against the revolutionary reformist and anti-caste ideologue, Periyar, as part of a campaign among Hindutva-minded Tamil Brahmin musicians against the conferment of a prestigious award to the Carnatic vocalist TM Krishna. They opposed TM Krishna for going against the orthodoxy in various ways, and most particularly for singing songs written by Periyar, whom they in turn accused of having viciously targeted Brahmins as a community.

As I followed the controversy, it struck me that Periyar’s was an early example of what would today be called structural critique and identity politics in Europe and America. There is no doubt that the language of this politics is acutely unfriendly to whichever group it claims has perpetuated structural inequality and historic wrongs.

Taken at its word, such language is abusive and intimidating. But the fact is that on the ground, the real life that goes on outside of the sharp talk of such politics is not as divided or threatening as it sounds. The long association between Periyar and C. Rajagopalachari, who was a Brahmin, provides an interesting example of this (634).

Even so, I do not believe that structural critique is the best way to deal with issues of social justice. Sharp rhetoric and taking arguments to their extreme is an exercise best reserved for philosophers. In fact, it was Western academics who invented post-structuralist politics in the first place.

I believe that on issues of social justice better results can be obtained on the ground with tact, civility and, again, a little imagination. As I said in the introductory chapter, we have many other instruments than disputation and “paying back in kind” to deal with our differences and grudges. We have humour, forgiveness, looking the other way, agreeing to disagree, enjoying each others’ food and festivals, being the bigger one in a fight, looking ahead to the future instead of backwards to the past, and all the other things that we humans draw on in our relations with each other when we decide that we would rather be friends than foes.

This is a level of compassion and maturity that post-modernist university professors can sometimes sorely lack, but we do not have to behave like them in turn.   

It is not as though Tamil Brahmins have always been blindly conservative. Tamil Brahmins often led reform and modernisation in Indian society. Like my great grandfather who, in the late 1800s, repudiated the practice of child widowhood to educate my great aunt instead of placing her into confinement when her betrothed died in childhood. Being from the educated classes, Tamil Brahmins were often among the first in Indian society to recognise the value of modernisation and the injustice of the old ways.

In this context, on identity politics, I can see the unfairness in making people feel that they have to be held accountable for historic wrongs for which they were not individually responsible, and may well themselves condemn. In the end, no society benefits by making any one of its constituents feel under siege. To some extent, the rise of the Alt Right in the West is a backlash against this type of politics.

But Tamil Brahmins have to remember that a blindly pugilistic politics is not the right or ultimately effective response to identity politics. Identity and vote bank politics is written into the fabric of democratic party politics. Is there any democratic country in the world without some version of it?

Tamil Brahmins who are riled up about identity politics and what the Hindu Right calls “vote bank” politics need to take a step back and take stock of the many benefits that have accrued to them individually and as a group from the democratic and liberal social order in India and elsewhere in the world where they have settled.

Moreover, such politics is not always a negative thing for society. It acts as a short-form for expressing solidarity and inclusiveness, both of which are always precariously poised in a diverse and disparate society like ours. In a country with deep inequalities, a Hindu majority that towers in numbers over the other religious communities, and limited resources that cannot possibly remedy everyone’s problems, identity-based interventions can go a long way in making people feel that they have a stake in holding together as a society, no matter what their circumstances and background.

This is something that we all benefit from. It secures the environment of stability and security that we all need in order to organise our lives and endeavour to fulfil our aspirations. It is the best way to address historic discrimination and present inequalities. Let us learn to see it as a way of extending a hand of friendship to the others in our community, and leave it there for the moment. Let the other arguments wait until all our fellow Indians are in a better material and social position.   

I notice that in discussion about the caste system, or about the role of Brahmins in India, there is never any acknowledgement of the modest means of the vast majority of Tamil Brahmins. This is not to say that other communities in South India may not be worse off. But the way they are spoken of sometimes, no one would guess at the rather limited material circumstances of most Tamil Brahmins, and how hard they have had to work to establish themselves in whatever field.

While Tamil Brahmins were born into a certain position of social respect and cultural prestige, that was not the same as a silver spoon, which most of them did not have. The limits on seats available to them in educational institutions and public employment in Tamil Nadu did not help.

No doubt, they survived, and many of them thrived. An example is my own enterprising grandfather who decided as a young man that Tamil Nadu and the old way of life in the agrahara, even though he was the son of zamindars, had nothing to offer him.

Many Tam Brams like him left South India to find better opportunities up north. In the last few decades there has also been a huge rise in the wealth of many in the community as large numbers of its young have found lucrative jobs as professionals in information technology, finance, law and business management in Europe and America.

Despite this, the resentment at having been unfairly squeezed in an already tight situation is real, and not entirely unreasonable. Moreover, it is a loss for the whole country that this talent left our shores. But as educated and civilized people who have done extremely well notwithstanding some challenges, we Tamil Brahmins do not have the right to be led by our resentment.

Look at the price that is being paid for taking revenge on history through Hindutva. Here I mean the special history of the last century of the Tamil Brahmins, and not the false Hindutva-history of India.

Our culture is daily getting degraded under the reign of the Hindu Right. Take the thumping beats of H-pop. This is techno music for young Hindutva recruits. It is breathy and pumping. It creates the sort of effect that over-sexed teenagers go for like bees to honey. No one would guess that the music was supposed to be “religious” were it not for the token reference to Ram or Shiva in the refrain.

The sexualised make-over of Hindutva runs deeper than a publicity stunt to attract the youth. After weeks of being told to go f--- Pakistanis in the trolling by Hindutva activists that I mentioned in the opening chapter, it dawned on me that there was a deep underlying sexually-related feeling of inadequacy among these people. I don’t bring this up just for laughs. There is an inner vulnerability among the constituents of the Hindu Right that has been cleverly and rather ruthlessly exploited by their leaders.

One way in which they do this is by flooding social media with revised images of Hindu gods and deities. The monkey god Hanuman has become a scowling lion. This has been made into a car sticker.

The new Ganesha has abandoned his usual pose, which was seated, with the broken-off tusk in his hand, poised to start writing to Vyasa’s dictation. Oh no, the new Ganesha prefers the gym to the writing-desk. He has lost his pot belly, broken out in muscles, and appears to be wearing Viking boots.


Neo-Hindu imagery of Hindutva.  A scowling lion-like Hanuman.

Neo-Hindu image of Ganesha of Hindutvavad where the scholar at his desk is replaced by a menacing be-muscled figure with clenched fists and weapons, instead of the broken-off tusk that he used as his pen. The ancient image that may have been formed in the context of a society that was transitioning into a written script is replaced by an all-in wrestler. The joyous pot-belly, symbol of luck and bounty, is replaced by a mean-looking six-pack.

The conversion of monkey to lion and the dropping of Ganesha’s pot-belly are revealing of how de-racinated and embarrassed of our traditions the Hindutva brigade truly is, even as it accuses everyone else of these things.

This has to be the reason for the tacky depictions of gods with flying hair, six-pack abs and sharply cut features in the neo-Hindu imagery of the Hindu Right. There is no attempt to disguise the fact that these re-vamped images of Hindu deities are meant to evoke Western super-heroes and anime characters. Why would you do that unless you believed that the old gods were not good enough?



The replacement of the eloquent serenity in the carvings and drawings of our gods with the aggression of the new Hindutva imagery is not simply an aesthetic infraction of a 1400-year-old tradition. It is a repudiation of the moral message contained in that tradition.

Hindutva wants the young to be angry and physically aggressive. This is the implementation of one of the many wrong and distorted ideas of the founding fathers of Hindutva, which is that Hindus were weak and unmanly, and hence gave in to thousands of years of “ghulami” (slavery) to others.

I do not know which Hindus those founders of Hindutva had in mind. The pages of this paper are filled with the histories of valorous Indian rajas who were Hindu. The martial prowess of our warrior clans is world-renowned. Many of them are Hindu. But for some reason Hindutva ideologues have always been obsessed with this idea of manning-up Hindus. This is why under the British Raj they pathetically imitated English Boy Scouts in their khaki shorts and pulled-up socks.

But the pot-bellied uncle who held Rashtriya Swayamsewak Sangh meetings in the form of hasya yoga exercises in the park downstairs, has now been replaced with a new and frightening sort of young man. In North India, it is clear that the matts, deras and other religious hubs are being used to recruit young, aggressive and jobless men as the foot-soldiers of Hindutva.



During the Kawaria Yatra season they zoom around on their motorbikes in orange bandanas, breaking traffic rules in a show of power, and intimidating the public. They hold up traffic in tempos loaded with enormous speakers blasting aggressive H-pop.

If you drive through Uttarakhand at any time of the year, you will see road-side “langars” and parades blasting H-pop with menacing young men hanging around, many of whom look drunk.

These are serious and dangerous developments that are bad for our society. It is time to wake up and realise that there have to be limits to the desire to show TM Krishna his place or to avenge yourself for your children being kept out of the Indian Institute of Technology, Madras by reservations!

continued after photos below

This is the way Hindutva activists speak, while holding up the names and images of our gods and goddesses. These above and below are a sample of the kinds of messages the author received for protesting the Ayodhya event last year by going on fast alone in her own home. 











An educated community, with enormous social and cultural clout, that is experiencing rapidly growing wealth and opportunities abroad, can surely express and assert itself in a better way than the degrading and destructive politics of Hindutva.

There is a deep lack of confidence in confronting modernity among the adherents of Hindutva with their hitherto limited and closed-off lives. I cannot imagine what it must be like to come from a milieu that has had no break from the conventions of a thousand or more years, and moreover, which were developed in the context of a strict ascetic lifestyle, out of sync with natural human instincts and needs. But it has left millions of young aspirational Indians spiritually at sea in contending with modernity.

This is an existential crisis to which the easiest response is a doubling down on your traditional identity. This offers a reassuring certainty in an age of deep uncertainty about the things that we come from.

But it does not have to be this way. The sense of uncertainty about our past evaporates once we acquire a deeper understanding of it by going beyond its rituals and mores. Once we go beneath surface conventions to their underlying values then we can see, straight and true, the connection of our present with our past. This is what I have tried to demonstrate in this paper.   

One of the things that was thrown at me during my run-in with Hindutva trolls last January, was the question of how I could say that I was a Hindu when my father was an atheist and my mother a Sikh.

I had never thought of it like that before. It seemed like an odd question for an Indian, especially a Hindu, to ask. One simply absorbs all the traditions and religious influences around, and they appeal to you or not.

Maybe if I had been told that it was wrong to be a Hindu, I might not have grown up to think of myself as one. But no one ever said that to me. This is not how secularists speak. If the question was asked genuinely, then my answer is that you have a grave misconception about what Indian secularists believe in. Secularists do not make an enemy of any religion. They just believe that religion is a personal matter, and should not be imposed on anyone.

Most Indian secularists are spiritual and religious. They simply reject ritualism and all the trappings of religion - not its core message. As an atheist, my father is in a minority even among secularists. He says that he does not believe in god and genuinely seems to believe that. Personally, I have never been able to understand atheism – not from a moral point of view, but as an epistemology! I am not able to adopt the perspective of those who say that they do not believe in god. How, then, do they find meaning in life?

In the case of my father, I find his atheism all the more puzzling because he is such a deeply humane man. He is not in the least cynical or nihilistic as atheists can be. I have often wondered how someone who is so full of kindness and generosity, and with such a love of life, can be an atheist. Over the years I came to the conclusion that his is actually an inverted version of my own attitude – while I see god everywhere, he does not see him anywhere, and somehow, it comes to the same thing!

Both my grandmothers were devout. My paternal grandmother, Bhagyam, moved into the Sivananda Ashram in Rishikesh before I was born. When she would visit, she would talk to me about meditation and spirituality, and conduct prayers. 

I would wake up to find her in her morning meditation. Then when she joined the family, she would give me a report on how it had gone. Once, she told me that she had been naughty as flashes of the show Laurel and Hardy had kept coming into her mind. Another time she told me that she kept thinking of cheese, which she oughtn’t even to be eating!

She would tell me stories from Hindu mythology in a philosophical spirit, as lessons for life and morality. If you had asked her whether Ram was a mythological or historical figure, she would have shrugged and told you a moral story about him.

At the end of her life, as she was in our home dying from cancer, her mind almost entirely gone, she would repeat god’s name over and over, lying on her bed in the foetal position: “Rama, Rama, Rama, Rama, Rama, Rama…..”.

My father would come home from work in the evening and lie on the bed beside her, curling himself around her, holding her hand in his.

Years later, my mother brought my maternal grandmother, Teji, to our home when she was in her final illness. Towards the end, dementia had taken her mind away almost completely, except for snatches of some kirtans. I remember entering her room and watching her gibbering helplessly through the day, but emerging almost miraculously from time to time into a few seconds of lucidity to sing a line along with the kirtan playing on the recorder.

So this is how my grandmothers died. In the same way, calling out to god. Only the name of the god was different. Looking back, I believe that god was ever present in my home in those days in the devotion of my parents to theirs.

This is what I come from. This is the life of a secular Indian.

I think that I should end by saying that I did not write this paper because I hate India or Hinduism. I was brought up to be religious or not as I pleased. But I always only ever thought of myself as Hindu.

I had stayed in touch out of sentiment with the pujari who had conducted my wedding – I had insisted on a proper Tamil ceremony. When the Covid lockdown was imposed, my first thought was for the dancers and musicians that I work with. How would they manage with all public gatherings banned? My next thought was for the pujaris who do homams in people’s houses. How would they survive the ban on social gatherings?

I called my wedding pujari in Tamil Nadu to ask how he was doing. It became clear that pujaris like him were not receiving anything from the temples. A really gross injustice when you think of how much treasure those temples have.  

I sent across what little I could, and commissioned some “online” pujas for my family’s health to help this pujari and his group of priests tide over the lockdown.

Last year in May, I was to turn fifty and decided to fulfil the dream of a lifetime to have a yagya at home with hundreds of priests as I used to read about in Amar Chitra Kathas in my childhood! I asked the pujari who gently suggested that instead of hundreds, I should have a Maha Rudra Yagya with fifty two priests.

The yagya was sublime. I kept alternating between a state of inner bliss and catching my breath at the loveliness of the spectacle. The fire, the beautifully be-robed gods and goddesses, the flowers, the patterns with powdered rice, haldi and kumkum, the uplifting hum of the chanting.....no one could have resisted this religion had it been open to everyone.  

When all the priests had arrived and the chanting was in full swing, I looked around noting the rich timbre of their voices and a certain practiced mobility that they all seemed to have about the jaw. All the hallmarks of the orator.

It put me in mind of my father and uncles who are forever holding forth on something or other. This is where we Tam Brams get the gift of the gab from, I thought. Centuries of Vedic chanting.

My father and uncles will never have thought of it as such, but to my eye, their fierce intellectualism and sharp wit, their refusal to suffer fools gladly, was all Tam Bram. It always made me smile that they could not see that.

1837 painting by Etienne Alexander Rodrigues of a Tamil Smartha Brahmin from Tamil Nadu. 
Perhaps it was one of my ancestors in Sivaganga or Karguddi who posed for this…… 
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons.


As for India, I love India. Maybe India is the greatest love of my life. I used to think that the greatest loves of my life were my children, but when at one point around this time last year when police action was being threatened against me by random members of the Hindutva public for my stand on the temple inauguration at Ayodhya, I did not hesitate a moment in the cause of what I saw to be the fight for India, no matter what the consequences for my family.



I am sometimes told that I am brave, but I don’t know if this is just the Dutch courage that comes from being angry. Or maybe the truth is that all courage is Dutch……We were on a driving tour of Rajasthan on the 4th of June last year, when the results of the General Election began to come in. By lunch time we had reached our hotel, and it was clear that Modi would not be making it to “400-paar”. What is more, he was getting a drubbing in Uttar Pradesh, the heart of Hindutva politics. He was losing in Ayodhya! Then he began to lose in all the places that Ram had stopped in the Ramayana!

It was delicious. But not as delicious as that moment when I caught myself looking across the table at my son, and not saying goodbye to him in my mind for the first time in months…..My daughter I never had any worries about. She has an almost super-human resilience. Don’t know where she gets it from…When I told her that I might be going to jail, she told me to stop being a show-off!

Actually, one is scared all the time but just keeps going, pulled along willy nilly by this relentless inner compulsion ….

As I came to the end of writing this paper, and the moment of its publication drew near, I could not understand why my sleep was getting disturbed. Then early one morning I woke up with a gasp from a dream of being frogmarched to jail by a Russian Stasi-like guard when a hand came from behind and brushed me on the back with a white powder. I woke up with the word “Novichak!” ricocheting about my head.

This is the degree of stress at the thought of going public again on the subjects that I had raised last January. And just the other day we were a democracy, free to say whatever we liked….

It is not that I myself in the waking state assess the situation in the country to be that bad…not yet. It was headed there, and then, with Narendra Modi being cut to size in the General Election, seems to have changed course somewhat. But I get discomposed by the fear in people’s eyes when they whisper to me that I am doing a “great job”.

I will not leave my children to such a cowed and silenced country. I am going to fight, and you morons from the Hindu Right can bring it on. But, Tam Brams, let us be clear. I am not fighting you. I am fighting for you. Stop the madness, and come over to my side.

New Delhi
15 February 2025 




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